Restaurants

Em Bashir

Sometimes, all you need is a good old saj (or two) to fill the belly and elevate your spirits. Head to Em Bashir’s, on your left as you descend past Jalset el 3erzel, where you can indulge in a thin markouk painted with zaatar and olive oil paste and heated to a crisp on a convex oven. There’s also Abou Artine in Faraya Square (at the roundabout), who crafts a unique saj turnover stuffed with homemade soujouk. The Jebneh 7arra blends slightly sweet cheese with slightly piquant red pepper paste for an incredible marriage of flavors.

Her small stand is located just to the right of the entrance of Faraya, before you reach Al Erzal.