Why Is Elie Saab Collaborating with H&M?

We all saw the announcement that luxury haute couture fashion house Elie Saab is collaborating with fast fashion clothing company H&M. The collaboration consists of a wearable and accessible line that takes you from “red carpet darling” to an “everyday icon”.

And while I tend to applaud Lebanese designers for making it big(ger), I did not expect a fashion house like Elie Saab, a household name among celebrities and a must-see on red carpets, to opt for a collaboration with a fast fashion brand like H&M. One that shut down in Lebanon, mind you.

So, what exactly is the purpose behind this collaboration?

The issue with H&M

H&M stands among the biggest fast fashion empires today, alongside Shein, Zara, Uniqlo, and many more.

It has one of the shortest lead times and a highly compressed supply chain model, making it easier to produce and circulate new styles at an incredibly fast pace, contributing to the constant cycle of trends and consumption that defines fast fashion.

What’s the point?

So, this isn’t exactly a collaboration that feels beneficial to the environment. And it’s not one that’s directly accessible to Lebanese shoppers either. Not that Elie Saab is obliged to involve Lebanese people in every collaboration he takes on, but we’re struggling to see what this particular partnership adds.

There’s something especially odd about seeing a Lebanese designer lend his name to a fast-fashion giant like H&M, especially when the collaboration is being presented as a meeting of luxury and accessibility. Elie Saab’s name carries a very different meaning in Lebanon, where his work has long been associated with craftsmanship, couture, and exclusivity.

And besides, none of the advertised pieces are giving “everyday icon”.

They’re not signature Elie Saab, and I could probably find similar, if not identical, items at other fast fashion brands, even though the collaboration hasn’t been officially released yet.

Final words

Yes, I know that not every collaboration has to have a point. Yes, I know that it’s his fashion house and he decides what collaborations he’s taking on. And yes, there’s nothing inherently wrong with wanting to make his work more accessible to a wider audience.

However, given that we’re in the era of fast fashion and you could find nearly the exact same thing only a few shops down, why are we not presenting something more distinctive and of value? And why do we need to collaborate with fast fashion empires to make it happen?

Anyway…

Do we have bigger things to worry about in Lebanon? Definitely. But, believe it or not, we can hold more than one thought at the same time.

Check out the #Lebanese Designers and #Opinion sections on our website for more content like this.

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